Indoor Gardening
with Indoor Sunshine: Duro-Test has developed a lamp which simulates true
natural light in a fluorescent light bulb. This bulb is Vita-Lite.
Sunlight is
full-spectrum light; it cannot be improved upon. Full-spectrum light is white
light in its proper balance of ultraviolet. Under sunlight, virtually all plant
and animal life evolved and flourished.
Prize-winning plants
have been grown indoors under Vita-Lite in all seasons of the year, thus greatly
enhancing the rewards of indoor gardening. African Violets, Begonias,
Bromeliads, Cacti, Orchids and Roses all grow well in light by Vita-Lite.
INDOOR
GARDENING with INDOOR SUNSHINE
Plants depend on good light for good growth, but relying on sunlight coming
through a window a small part of the day is not enough. Clouds, haze, smog, and
dirty, sooty windows all further prevent the proper and sufficient light from
reaching plants. Fortunately, healthy plants and flowers can be grown and kept
vital without any natural sunlight at all; full-spectrum Vita-Lite provides an
excellent substitute and has the advantage of permitting plants to flourish on
bookshelves, in stairwells and corridors, and other windowless areas.
GOOD
LIGHT IS IMPORTANT
Proper balanced
light has been the factor which, up to now, has been the most difficult to
achieve in the home growing of houseplants. Smog and air pollutants diminish the
quality and quantity of light and have forced many indoor horticulturists to
depend on various types and mixtures of incandescent and fluorescent lights to
grow their plants. Unfortunately, even the so-called "daylite"
fluorescent tubes give only a fraction of true life-giving light energy to the
plant surfaces. Our Company has developed a lamp which simulates true natural
light in a fluorescent light bulb. This bulb is Vita-Lite. Plants under
Vita-Lite appear just as they do outdoors in the natural light (sun and shade).
FULL-SPECTRUM
LIGHT
Sunlight
is full-spectrum light; it cannot be improved upon. Full-spectrum light is white
light in its proper balance of ultraviolet and visible. Under sunlight,
virtually all plant and animal life evolved and flourished. And under sunlight
all things are seen as they really are--in their true colors. The best
artificial lights for indoor light gardening are those that most closely match
sunlight. This is done with Vita-Lite, which supplies complete "indoor
sunshine" essential to the life support of many types of exotic vegetation.
GENERAL LIGHTING
REQUIREMENTS FOR PLANTS
To determine how
much light a plant will require, consider where and how it grows best in its
natural environment. Most vegetables, for instance, grow in full sunlight, which
means as much light as possible must be supplied indoors. Such foliage plants as
Philodendron grow in full shade and therefore can grow normally with relatively
little artificial light. Exotic plants, such as Bromeliads, grow in varying
conditions depending on the species. Some grow in deep shade in the jungle,
while others grow in bright sunlight. The lighting level required for growth
indoors depends upon characteristics of the particular plant being grown.
PLANTS
NEED DARKNESS
Plants need dark
periods. Light (called photo-periods) and dark periods and their relative
lengths have an effect on plant maturity. Actually, recent investigations have
proven that it is not just the length of day which affects growth, but the
duration of the dark period which follows. The dark period of each day affects
flowering and seeding of most plants. Although many plants can grow under
continuous light, nearly all plants prefer a dark period each day for normal
growth. All plants need some darkness to grow well or to trigger flowering. The
ideal photoperiods of plants vary, some preferring long days and short nights;
others the reverse; and some equal day-night periods. These characteristics are
related to their evolution at different latitudes of the earth.
VITA-LITE PRODUCES
PRIZE WINNING PLANTS
Prize-winning plants
have been grown indoors under Vita-Lite in all seasons of the year, thus greatly
enhancing the rewards of indoor gardening. African Violets, Begonias,
Bromeliads, Cacti, Chrysanthemums, Geraniums, Gloxinias, Orchids, Roses and many
other exotic plants, both tropical and sub-tropical, are grown in indoor light
gardens when balanced full-spectrum Vita-Lite is used.
Many kinds of seeds
and cuttings can be started indoors for later planting outdoors when weather
conditions are favorable. Vegetables such as tomatoes can be three or four weeks
ahead of schedule for spring outdoor transplanting and will yield fruit much
earlier. Plants also are more compact, yielding more uniform and heavier fruit.
Vita-Lite
fluorescent tubes are the best artificial light source for plants. These are
designed to fit in standard fluorescent fixtures.
SELF-BALLASTED MERCURY VAPOR PLANT LIGHTS
Self-ballasted color-improved mercury vapor lamps (Fluomeric) are almost as good
as fluorescents as an artificial light source for plants. They can be used in
regular fixtures rated for proper wattage and are initially more costly than
incandescent bulbs, but burn less electricity and the bulbs last 10-20 times as
long. Fluomeric lamps are especially useful in lighting large foliage plants in
interiors.
INCANDESCENT PLANT
LIGHTS
Incandescent
bulbs, although less effective than full-spectrum Vita-Lite, are still a
satisfactory light source for tropical foliage plants. They are initially very
inexpensive and are the most flexible to use. This is, of course, the ordinary
light bulb which requires no special fixture. Our company manufactures a special
type of incandescent light that's better than any other incandescent as an
artificial light source; it's called PlantLite. They are particularly good for
maintenance of foliage plants.
LIGHT LEVELS FOR
PLANTS
The light levels of Low, Medium, Good or Direct given for each plant are the
MINIMUM amount of light needed for healthy growth. Almost all plants except
delicate ones such as ferns, will grow better WITH MORE THAN the recommended
minimum light. Plants will live at lower light levels than those recommended but
usually with reduced growth, etiolation*, shorter life and poor health. The
light recommendations given here are for natural light. If there is not
sufficient natural light, supplemental artificial light can be used to
satisfactorily grow most indoor plants.
*
ETIOLATION -- yellowing or whitening of a green plant through lack of sunshine .
. also stringy or legginess
JUDGING LIGHT
WITHOUT A METER
Verbal descriptions of each light rating are given below by giving examples of
locations where a plant will get the recommended light level whether it be a
North, South, East or West window. The ratings are based on an average sized
window of about 3 ft. wide and 5 ft. high with no blinds or curtains obstructing
the light. If the window is smaller or larger, make allowances for this.
FOOTCANDLES (MEASURING LIGHT)
A footcandle meter is the most reliable way to measure light. A photographic
light meter can also be used to measure foot candles with special procedures and
a conversion table.
The number of footcandles for each light level rating is below. The footcandles
listed under each light rating are based on readings taken at mid-day on bright
sunny days. When measuring light with a footcandle meter, stand where the plant
will be placed and aim the footcandle meter at the main light source.
If the light source
is from only one side, and is no more than the minimum number of footcandles
given, the plant will survive but it will grow toward the light. It is not
practical to rotate the plant if only the minimum ratings are available, as the
side that is getting light cannot sustain healthy growth with anything less than
these minimum amounts of light. The side away from the light will gradually thin
out from a lack of light. There is no harm in this and the plant can still
remain decorative and healthy. If the light is at least two times the minimum
rating, then you can rotate the plant weekly to maintain its even shape.
Heat -- Heat generated by an artificial light source is a factor which must be
carefully watched. If the temperature on the surface of the leaf goes above
85F., the leaf can no longer carry out photosynthesis (the job of converting
light to food energy). In the tropics plants carry out photosynthesis mostly in
the morning and afternoon when leaf temperatures are below 85F. As room
temperatures are often 75F., if the leaf surfaces feel even warm to the touch
the chances are the leaf temperature is above 85F, and the light should be moved
further away. This effect is notably lessened when using full-spectrum
Vita-Lite.
Light Position -- In order for a plant to maintain its natural shape it should
generally receive its light from an evenly distributed source, at least above
the middle of the plant. It is possible for a plant to receive light only from
below, but it is less efficient than from above and would require much more
light for photosynthesis. If light comes from one side only, the plant will grow
towards the light and tend to become one sided. There is no harm in this but if
the original natural shape of the plant is to be maintained, the plant should be
rotated weekly if there is sufficient light to allow this. (See Footcandles).
LOW LIGHT
Footcandles: 50 -- 100
Locations for Low Light:
Directly in front of a NORTH WINDOW which has most of the sky blocked by trees,
buildings or other obstructions.
A few feet away from an EAST or WEST WINDOW which has most of the sky blocked by
trees, buildings or other obstructions.
Up to 10 ft. back
from or a few feet to either side of an EAST or WEST WINDOW which has the sky
unobstructed.
Up to 10 ft. back or a few feet to either side of a SOUTH WINDOW which has most
of the sky blocked by trees, buildings or other obstructions.
Up to 15 to 20 feet back or well to either side of a SOUTH WINDOW which is
unobstructed.
MEDIUM LIGHT
Footcandles: 100 -- 200
Locations for Medium Light:
Directly in front of a NORTH WINDOW which has none of the sky blocked by trees,
buildings or other obstructions.
Directly in front of an EAST or WEST WINDOW which has about half of the sky
blocked by buildings, trees or other obstructions.
A few feet back from or just to either side of an EAST or WEST WIN DOW which has
the sky unobstructed.
Up to 10 feet back or a few feet to either side of a SOUTH WINDOW when the sky
is unobstructed.
GOOD LIGHT
Footcandles: 200 -- 300
Locations for Good Light:
Directly in front of an EAST or WEST WINDOW which has none of the sky blocked by
trees, buildings or other obstructions.
Directly in front of a SOUTH WINDOW which has half of the sky blocked by trees,
buildings or other obstructions.
Up to 5 ft. back or just to either side of a SOUTH WINDOW which is unobstructed.
DIRECT LIGHT
Footcandles: 1200 -- 1500
Direct Light means the direct rays of the sun falling on most or all of the
leaves or foliage of a plant. It is recommended that direct light be available a
minimum of three to four hours on a sunny day.
Once the supply of quality light is assured, the indoor horticulturist must now
consider the following factors:
HUMIDITY
Most tropical indoor plants like high humidity. Generally homes and commercial
establishments, particularly with hot air heat and air conditioning, have a very
low relative humidity. Most of the plants listed can withstand this low humidity
but with various degrees of success.
Less hardy plants will generally benefit from any humidity you can add to the
air. Humidifiers, pans of gravel and water under the plants, or misting the
leaves daily will help to increase humidity level.
TEMPERATURE
Too much heat can result in soft, weak plant development.
Again, let us look at Nature's way. Even in tropical jungle and desert areas,
nights are quite cool and often even cold. Plants require these cycles of daily
temperature variations in order to thrive and develop properly.
A good rule of thumb to follow is from 68" to 75" during the day and
from 52" to 60" at night. If heat must be maintained at a higher
temperature at night, try to keep your plant-growing areas cool.
It should be noted that most tropical plants will adapt to moderately
air-conditioned rooms, providing that they are not placed in the path of the
direct air-blast, as this could be fatal. If it is impossible to place plants in
any other but a vulnerable spot, they should be protected from drafts by a
transparent plastic diversionary screen.
POTTING MEDIA
In selecting an adequate potting medium for your houseplants, it would be wise
to select one that is fairly porous so that it does not become too soggy. An
exception to this rule is the geranium family, which can use a heavier, more
compact material. But as a good rule of thumb, the average tropical houseplant
needs a medium that is high in coarse peat moss content and one that contains
among other ingredients: leaf mold, humus, perlite, osmunda fiber, redwood bark
wool, pine bark chips.
Notice that soil and vermiculite are not included in this conglomerate. These
two substances tend to stay too damp and also might cake up. Such exotic
houseplant families as Gesneriad and Begonia have very fine roots, and it is
very important that the potting media permit these hairlike root structures to
penetrate the substance easily. In almost all cases, it is a good idea to permit
the potting material to dry out well between waterings.
FERTILIZER
Under Vite-Lite, your plants will actually require more plant food than usual; a
light feeding once a week under this optimum growing condition is not too
frequent. Use an all-purpose fertilizer, with a strong preference toward the
organic liquid type.
CLAY POTS VS.
PLASTIC
There is a great deal of controversy about whether clay or plastic pots are best
for plants cultivated indoors. Actually, if all the other conditions necessary
for good plant development are met, it really does not matter which you use.
Clay pots are heavy and become easily covered with unattractive algae that
frequently has to be scrubbed off. On the other hand, their heavier weight
guards against tipping, and their porosity helps keep the roots cool and
ventilated. Plastic pots are more attractive and if many plants are grown in the
same area, they can all be of the same color and shape for aesthetic uniformity.
WATERING
Probably the greatest cause of destruction of houseplants is over-watering. The
over-enthusiastic home horticulturist, in a desire to grow more vigorous and
more robust plants, is often excessively generous in supplying food and water to
plants. A good way to insure a safe method of watering is to permit the soil to
dry out somewhat between waterings. After all, in nature, it does not rain every
day and there are occasional dry periods.
An interesting fact to remember is that when plants are under the beneficial
full-spectrum of Vita-Lite, they actually require more frequent waterings than
those grown under other conditions, such as windowsill illumination. This is
because good lighting brings on added vigorous growth, and this necessitates
extra food and water to maintain the important proper balance.
To determine if a plant needs watering, poke your finger about one inch into the
potting mix and if it feels damp, do not add extra moisture. Add water only when
your exploration reveals the medium to be quite dry, then water thoroughly.
VENTILATION
To permit the plants to get a fresh supply of proper gases in the winter,
occasionally open a window in a room away from the plants. Some people like to
maintain a constant circulation of air around the plants and use a small,
slow-moving electric fan in the growing area.
INSECTS AND DISEASE
The best way to guard against insect and disease infestation of houseplants is
to be vigilant and to maintain a clean and sanitary environment from the moment
a new plant enters your collection. Pots should be new or have been scrubbed
clean with a good disinfectant solution. All newly-acquired plants are removed
from their pots and soil, washed under lukewarm running water, and then are
inspected carefully. If pests are discovered, they frequently can be removed by
another washing.
The most common indoor plant pest is the mealy bug. If you discover these fuzzy
creatures, pick them off with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol or nail polish
remover. Remove the infected plant from the collection and keep it isolated. If
you find disease or rot, cut the infected area out of the plant and dust the
exposed raw surface with powdered sulphur or a commercial fungicide. Remember,
cleanliness is the best deterrent to infection.
